Ilford Wash Method
August 5th, 2008
For years I’ve been using what I thought was a minor modification of the Ilford wash method, 6 changes of water with continuous agitation. I’ve no idea how I got started on this method, but I’ve used it for years. Apparently, 3 changes of water is plenty and even one might be enough, as is documented in this PDF: Some Investigations on the Kinematics of the ILFORD batch Film washing Procedure. It’s got graphs, words I don’t understanding and bizarre capitalization in the title, so it must be true.
August 5th, 2008
Hi Matt
I have also used that method for a long time. However, I use it with a difference:
Fill, reverse 5 times
Let stand 5 minutes
Pour, fill, reverse 10 times
Let Stand 5 minutes
Pour, fill, reverse 20 times
Let stand 5 minutes
Pour.
I think that version came from the book The Film Developper Cookbook (I can check). In my source, the author stated that the method is often quoted with the mistake of omitting the 5 minutes pauses.
I don’t know which one is true. What I do know is that TMX gets out perfectly clear with the pauses and pink without. So the pauses do make a difference in the washing.
As it happens, I am starting to pick the M6 again :-) I even located a few sources for APX 100 :-D
August 5th, 2008
I think we may be working from the same source, because I vaguely remember adding the pauses to remove the purple back when I was shooting a lot of TMY. I think I added the extra washing because I was having problems with spotting, which probably had more to do with dodgy water than they did with too little water.
I’m enjoying shooting with the M6. It’s a different experience.
Never tried APX 100, but it seems to have many fans. I guess I’ll leave the remaining stock to those who have already established that relationship.
August 5th, 2008
I strictly and only use distilled water for developer mixing, stop bath (just the water), fixer mixing and wash. Sounds luxurious, maybe, but:
- suppresses questions about the water.
- naturally kept at consistent temperature with all the baths and the tank.
- uses 4 liters for 3 films in case of Diafine or 5 liters in case of HC-110 or similar. Then look at the price and I find it negligible when put against the cost of other materials.
- never experienced a spot on dried negs since I do that. No need for wetting agent of wasting Vodka anymore.
PS: regarding Vodka, I’d rather use Wiborowa or Moskowskaya, but that would be a much more terrible waste than Smirnoff IMHO.
August 5th, 2008
I also only use distilled for all solutions and wash, but I’ve found the alcohol and wetting agent for final rinse keeps down water spots. Since the spots are salts of some kind, I can only assume that I’m getting contamination in somewhere, but the final rinse seems to take care of it.
August 6th, 2008
same here. I follow Stephane’s method with 15,30, and 45 inversions.
I found what really makes a difference is a pre-wash of the film. The negatives are somehow more clearer. I adjust the development timing by reducing 30secs from standard.
matt: APX100 in Rodinal 1+50. It’s just magical. :)